The UK's only blogging tandem – e-Matilda, the new Gepida Bikes Thoris Voyage e-tandem – writes Musings about her adventures on the road on a bicycle made for two with her 'dynamic crew' – the "old git" and Captain, aka Colin and the "old gal" and Stoker (as well as Chief Engineer) aka Diane.
Previously written by Matilda, the "old lady" classic Jack Taylor tandem, who is now virtually gracefully retired.
Ready for the ride – Team Matilda at the Kinloch Rannoch end of stunning Loch Rannoch.
This blog is the story of how my dynamic crew had lots of fun on a stunning day out on a fab #tandem round the beautiful wilderness Loch Rannoch Rannoch & Tummel Tourist Association – with lunch at Rannoch Station Tearoom which is probably the remotest tearoom in Scotland.
Another epic day out started with an early 6am Sunday alarm and after breakfast the “old git” and “old gal” headed to the wilderness spot of Loch Rannoch in Highland Perthshire in Matilda Transport to clock up some miles pedalling in magnificent scenery in one of their favourite locations in Scotland.
And an added bonus is there is no wi-fi signal adding to the peaceful nature of the area – but the all-important Strava still works to record the effort!
You can check out the details of our tandem route by clicking on the Strava map below.
The drive to the village of Kinloch Rannoch was thru constant heavy drizzle and my dynamic crew were hopeful that the weather forecast would be correct – with the rain due to give way to sunshine by the back of 10am.
That didn’t happen quite on schedule, so to give the weather gods a bit more time to get back on track the “old gal” decided that it would be a great idea to visit the ultra bike friendly Riverbank Cafe for a relaxing strong coffee and a tasty fresh scone. The “old git” noticed some tandem and cycling themed coasters, and couldn’t resist a purchase!
Tandem and cycle themed drinks coasters bought from Riverbank Cafe at Kinloch Rannoch.
By the time my dynamic crew emerged the thick clouds were starting to lift and there was even a hint of the sun breaking through. So a bit later than planned Team Matilda set off down the north side of Loch Rannoch on the B846 heading to Bridge of Gaur at the other end. There was a quick photo stop at the Kinloch Rannoch end just to breathe in the spellbinding beauty of the area.
The “old gal” enjoying the fabulous views down the full length of Loch Rannoch.
It is an area Team Matilda know well and the route is mostly gently undulating – and given the absence of any noticeable wind it was a true joy to be out tandeming. It was certainly another glorious day to be out in tandem in our rural Perth and Kinross Cycle Campaign, Perth and Kinross Countryside Trust, and Love Perthshire area.
As the clouds continued to lift, the majesty of the perfectly conical shape of Schiehallion – one of Scotland’s most recognisable mountains – emerged from the mist, adding to the magical aura.
Another stop was made at the beach area near Bridge of Gaur to spot the 19th Century folly which almost seems to be floating in the water. It is actually situated on Eilean Nam Faoileag (Island of Gulls) which is an old crannog dating back to 1110AD. It originally had a larger surface area but this was reduced by the raising of the water level when the loch was damned for hydro electric generation.
Spot the folly! – the building on a small island in the middle of Loch Rannoch.
At Bridge of Gaur we headed onto the steep and steady climb across the moor into the “middle of nowhere” on the scenic but secluded B846 to Rannoch Station – which must be the station with the best view in Scotland – for lunch at the amazing Rannoch Station Tearoom, which is situated bang in the middle of the active station platform on the West Highland line.
The “old gal” at Rannoch Station Tea room – the remotest tea room in Scotland?
Selfie time for my dynamic crew at remote Rannoch Station on the west Highland line.
It is billed as “probably the remotest tearoom in Scotland” and is one of my dynamic crews favourites. Despite its unique rural location it was incredibly busy. The “old git” was happy that he had booked in advance as that meant Team Matilda had the luxury of sitting inside and avoiding the plagues of midges which were around. However they had already sprayed on their Smidge repellent which kept them bite free.
My dynamic crew enjoyed yummy toasties followed by a slice of the magnificent carrot cake – de rigueur for Team Matilda (and indeed many other tandem crews!) And all while watching the live theatre that is the natural wilderness of Rannoch Moor.
The tearoom felt very safe, keeping to Covid guidelines, and in a nice cycling related touch the hand sanitiser on the tables was made by Ineos, sponsors of one of the cycling team Ineos Grenadiers.
Nice cycling related touch – hand sanitiser made by Ineos, sponsors of Ineos Grenadiers.
After the re-energising food it was time for a most enjoyable few miles downhill where my dynamic crew took a few photos at one with nature – starting with a photo of this “old lady” beside the roaring River Gaur, which flows into Loch Rannoch.
At one with nature – this “old lady” tandem and the roaring River Gaur which flows into the loch.
Next “natural” stop was a rock which looks like a big frog. Now Millport one of my dynamic crew’s other favourite spots for tandeming may have Croc Rock (a rock that looks and is painted like a crocodile) but Rannoch has Frog Rock!
Millport may have Crocodile Rock – but Rannoch has Frog Rock!
We pedalled past the Gaur hydro electric power station, part of the Tummel Valley hydro scheme, currently owned by SSE Renewables.
One of the many hydro electric facilities around Loch Rannoch at Gaur.
Back at Bridge of Gaur we took the quieter B-class single track road back to Kinloch Rannoch which hugs the south side of the loch. This was a superb easy – and speedy – tandem – thru the magnificent scenery of the Black Wood of Rannoch – part of the ancient Caledonian Forest. You could almost feel the history of the area.
Interesting old tree remains at the Black Wood of Rannoch – part of the ancient Caledonian Forest
It certainly lives up to its Forestry and Land Scotland billing as “a living growing monument with some trees thought to be about 400 years old, and is home to a wonderful variety of plants and wildlife, including deer, pine martens and red squirrel.” It is little wonder that it is designated a Special Area of Conservation and the “old gal” and the “old git” felt privileged to be there.
Cheers! The “old gal’s” prosecco toast to the end of the ride at the beach area.
Back at the top of the loch there is a super beach area just outside Kinloch Rannoch village and my dynamic crew doubled back there after completing their lap for their obligatory Team Matilda prosecco toast – which was a great way to celebrate the end of the ride.
Perfect spot for one of Team Matilda’s signature prosecco toasts.
The beach spot was halcyon – offering magnificent views down the full length of the loch to the mountains beyond – if only it had been about 10 degrees warmer!
Selfie cheers time for my dynamic crew – with fizz to mark a perfect day!
After Matilda was packed away in Matilda Transport my dynamic crew enjoyed a superb dinner in the tranquil surroundings of the very hospitable and highly recommended The Inn at Loch Tummel.
The “old git” and “old gal” both had thought they would order one of their fabulous handmade burgers – but there were none left on the menu after a busy weekend. But the special – which was recommended by the magnificently friendly host and owner Jade – was Lobster Thermidor. Ok then, if you insist! Even the “old git” – who can be difficult to please – admitted that the “non burger” Lobster Thermidor was just ace! It was simply a divine meal!
Lobster Thermidor – perfect meal to end a perfect day at the superb The Inn at Loch Tummel
With wi-fi restored at Strathtummel, the “old git” checked Strava which officially recorded the ride as being worth of a perfectly acceptable 12 gongs – made up of six personal bests; three 2nd bests and three 3rd bests.
The detailed Strava figures showed my dynamic crew tandemed a distance of 33.7 miles with a moving time of 2 hours 14 minutes. The average speed was an impressive 15.0 mph – a new record average speed for Team Matilda. Elevation was 1,221 feet. The maximum speed was 32.9 mph and Team Matilda managed to burn up 1,851 calories and produce an average power output of 205 W.
As always the route is brought to life in our Relive 3D mapping video – so click here to view or on the image below.
With the usual helpings of madcap fun en route, it was another sensational day out on a bicycle made for two!
And a good test of my dynamic crew’s fitness for their upcoming Nutty Tandemers Club Tour of Suffolk with fellow founding members John Taylor and Jane Termini Taylor towards the end of September. Team Matilda can’t wait!
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Team Matilda ready to road-test the new Tighnavon Glamping Pods venture at Kinloch Rannoch.
Day 1 – Spectacular Friday arriving at Tighnavon Glamping Pods with sunset experience!
Great excitement at Matildas Rest! It was Friday and the start of Team Matilda’s annual holidays and we had been invited to road-test a new development of glamping pods – specifically targetted at cyclists and outdoor types! And the fact that the luxury en-suite pods are based on the edge of wilderness Loch Rannoch – one of my crew’s favourite spots on earth – made it even more magical.
With Matilda Transport packed we headed off to Kinloch Rannoch in Highland Perthshire for our back to nature weekend of relaxation and tandeming – is there a better way to spend a romantic break?!
The Tighnavon Glamping Pods venture has only been open for three months and aims to provide a grown up version of camping – without having to put your tent up – for people who like their creature comforts but still want to get away from it all and re-connect with nature. Just perfect for my dynamic crew who don’t do camping under canvas under any circumstances!
The Tighnavon Glamping Pods are ideally situated in the village of Kinloch Rannoch.
The new tourism business of four wooden cabins, which sleep up to four people, are ideally situated nestling in some of Scotland’s most atmospheric and picturesque scenery to attract cyclists – as well as walkers and fishermen – who don’t want to be tied to a full week’s accommodation in one place.
Team Matilda was staying in the pod called Stag and although it may look bijou from the outside, my dynamic crew found it like a tardis inside – complete with everything they could need, including a nice touch of the bed already made up! And as the “old gal” quickly found a choice of sockets to plug in her hairdryer she said: “Glamping is clearly my kind of camping!”
As the Tighnavon Glamping Pods website says: “Our pods are equipped to a high standard – each has a double bed and a fold down double sofa bed and can comfortably sleep up to four people. There is a fully accessible wet-room with overhead shower and a small kitchenette equipped with kettle, toaster, microwave, twin hob, mini oven and fridge. Bedding, crockery, and pans are all provided – even tea, coffee and biscuits!” All you are asked to bring is your own towels.
A nice touch on arrival at the pods is that the bed already made up!
The pods are amazingly good value – and the prices refreshingly don’t change with the seasons. Each pod is priced at only £50 a night Sunday to Thursday and £80 on a Friday and Saturday night. There is a minimum stay of 2 nights and no additional costs for electricity or dogs.
Everything about the pods reflects the aim of the glamping concept providing a comfy and dry home-from-home experience – but still with that feeling of being out in the country!
There’s lots more about the “old gal” and “old git’s” experience of glamping later in this blog – including a walk-thru video of the facilities on offer and a video chat with the ultra friendly and hospitable co-owners Ian Philp and Sheona Glenville-Sutherland about “fulfilling their dream” and opening the pods.
The luxury en-suite pods offer a really comfy home-from-home experience!
The plan was for an early evening tandem ride around Loch Rannoch – hopefully timing it to arrive back at the beach at the top of the loch for a prosecco toast to enjoy the sunset. As my dynamic crew had arrived at the pods in good time they firstly explored the village of Kinloch Rannoch – firstly calling in to the friendly Riverbank Cafe to enjoy yummy home-made cake and coffee.
Next the “old gal” and “old git” were attracted to a sign for The Shed Gallery based in the Old Smiddy just off the village square which houses the modern gallery and workspace of photographer Ian Biggs. Ian’s stunning work draws its inspiration from the dynamic and evocative landscape of the Rannoch glen. Finally the Country Store and Post Office offered the chance for Team Matilda to stock up with a few last minute provisions from their impressive range for a village shop.
Tighnavon Ride 1 – Once in a lifetime spectacular sunset Loch Rannoch Loop
The “old gal” looking relaxing in the sunshine before our Loch Rannoch loop!
It was time to get my pedals moving and amazingly for late September the sun was beating down and my dynamic crew were really looking forward to a loop round the sun-kissed loch. You can check out the details of our route by clicking on the Strava map below.
Leaving the pods behind we set off thru the village square and headed down the north side of the loch on the B846. It is an area Team Matilda know well and the route is mostly gently undulating – and given the absence of any noticeable wind it was a true joy to be out tandeming.
The “old gal” decided a quick stop was required at the wild camping area about a third of the way down the loch – which offers a perfect viewpoint for pictures with the majesty of the perfectly conical shape of Schiehallion – one of Scotland’s most recognisable mountains – in the background. This area provides easy access to a small rocky beach area, and the loch which was looking stunning with the blue sky creating a deep blue colour on the water.
Rock with a sun-kissed view! The “old gal” with the iconic Schiehallion behind her!
You simply wouldn’t think it was September with these shades of blue!
Naturally there had to be a Team Matilda selfie! – showing the conical shape of Schiehallion.
Me and the “old gal” enjoying the rays of the sun at the wild camping site on the north side of the loch.
On we pedalled with the “old git” and “old gal” exhilarated by their progress down the loch. It was all too easy and then, just after Killichonan, we hit the steep hill at the saw mill! Let’s just say both my dynamic crew were breathing somewhat rapidly when we got to the top.
The reward is a rapid downhill to Bridge of Gaur, turning left at the end of the loch before crossing the bridge over the River Gaur. Next up was a steady – but more manageable – steep uphill climb for about half a mile. But the climb is worth it with views across the whole length and breadth of the loch.
The folly on a small island in Loch Rannoch dates from the 19th century.
A point of interest is Eilean Nam Faoileag – a small island which was occupied from the middle of the 15th century until the middle of the 17th century and now is home to a tower which is a 19th-century folly. You also can’t miss the impressive Rannoch Power Station – part of the Tummel Valley hydro scheme – on the opposite bank which has been in operation since 1930.
The route on the quieter south side of the loch is amazingly scenic – even more so than the (slightly) busier north shore road. The B-class single track road never seems to be more than a couple of yards from the loch itself and there is always lots to catch the eye.
This “old lady” was happy that we were whizzing along as it is always good to get a bit of speed going. Then one of our regular stops at an iconic tree which offers a fabulous view right up the loch.
The “old gal” at one of our regular stops on the south side at a tree with a view right up the loch.
This tree always brings a hearty laugh from the “old gal” as it was the place for an amusing photo where the “old git” didn’t realise that the “old gal” was taking the mickey and misbehaving by sticking her tongue out when he was adopting his serious tandemer pose for a team selfie! Ironically it turned out to be one of my dynamic crew’s best ever photos as it completely sums up what a Team Matilda adventure on a bicycle made for two is all about! No words are needed!
What happens when my Stoker takes the mickey when my Captain adopts his serious photo mode!
The wilderness factor was underlined as the narrow road winds its way through the magical Black Wood of Rannoch – more detail of which can be found in Sunday’s section below. Credit to the “old git” but he had timed the ride to perfection and my dynamic crew arrived at the beach area at the Kinloch Rannoch end just as the sun was starting to sink in the sky for their prosecco toast!
The added bonus was that neither the “old git” or the “old gal” had realised that the sun was going to be setting behind the mountains at the far end of the loch creating some magical light patterns, across the sky and then across the loch. It was a perfect spot to capture some amazing sunset shots, including one which had the effect of looking like the beach and sand dunes were on fire, giving everything it touched a healthy glow!
As the sun started to set it created a wonderful healthy glow on my dynamic crew’s faces!
My dynamic crew then had some fun positioning themselves to get the angle just right to get a selfie catching the fantastic sunset going directly in to their bottle of prosecco!
The “old git” got the angle just right to catch the fabulous sunset in the prosecco bottle!
What a magnificent way to spend a Friday evening! It really was one of those once in a lifetime experiences and the “old gal” and “old git” felt so lucky to be there. A true back to nature feeling!
The “old gal’s” head in the sun! It was a true privilege to see the sunset dancing on the loch!
Back in the comfort of the glamping pod, the “old git” checked Strava which officially recorded the ride as as showing that my dynamic crew tandemed a distance of 22.9 miles with a moving time of 1 hour 49 minutes. The average speed was a healthy 12.5 mph given the undulating terrain, and the overall elevation was 820 feet. The maximum speed was 31.1 mph and Team Matilda managed to burn up 1242 calories and produce an average power output of 169 W. Almost by accident my dynamic crew recorded 2 gongs along the route – with 2 second bests.
A tasty home-cooked meal was served up by the “old gal” – using the pod’s ample cooking facilities – followed by some chill time, before sleep beckoned with my dynamic crew dreaming of their spectacular ‘money can’t buy’ wilderness sunset experience.
Sleep beckoned dreaming of the once in a lifetime sunset experience at Loch Rannoch!
Day 2 – Energetic Saturday tandem ride in glorious Highland Perthshire sunshine!
Our sun-kissed Tighnavon Glamping Pod as we opened the curtains on Saturday morning!
Saturday dawned with the sun rising into a cloudless bright blue sky as Team Matilda wakened re-invigorated from a very deep and relaxing sleep courtesy of an extremely comfortable bed in the glamping pod. Buoyed by last night’s spectacular sunset over Loch Rannoch my dynamic crew were in good spirits and it was clearly going to be a good day!
The “old git” had scheduled a tandem loop of Loch Tummel for today – complete with one of the “old gal’s” signature prosecco picnics. And as this new route is set to be fairly hilly, and also takes in a short 0.75 mile section of the A9 main trunk road to Inverness, it could be just what my stoker will need!
My dynamic crew – who don’t do camping under canvas under any circumstances – have been most impressed with everything about the glamping pods. So much so that the “old gal” decided that she would record her thoughts on the Tighnavon development by filming a walk-thru of our en-suite pod – which is named Stag – to show the facilities on offer. You can watch the video here:
So after a healthy breakfast I was packed into Matilda Transport for the short 7 mile drive to our start point at Tummel Bridge, the village at the head of Loch Tummel.
Tighnavon Ride 2 – Hilly Loch Tummel loop including a stretch on the A9!
Loch Tummel is home to two of the nine hydro electric power stations which make up the impressive Tummel Valley scheme which was constructed in the1930s. Team Matilda parked opposite the grandeur of Tummel Bridge Power Station – which is now a listed building.
You can check out the details of our route by clicking on the Strava map below.
After kitting out in what was to be highly appropriate red polka dot King of the Mountain jerseys, the “old gal” showed her creative streak with a reflective shot of Team Matilda departing on the ride – captured in a mirror at the car park and transformed into a black and white image! Clever eh?!
The “old gal” showed her creative talent to capture this reflective image of Team Matilda!
The initial route almost saw us pedal to a standstill within a couple of minutes as we tackled the steep inclines of the B846 for the first two miles. The “old gal” was somewhat relieved when the route took a left turn onto the Foss Road to drop down to hug the banks of the loch. The sun was streaming thru the dense array of trees as we passed the edge of Frenich Wood, part of the Tay Forest Park, creating spectacular shadows and light patterns.
The “old gal” at the edge of the dense Frenich Wood, part of the Tay Forest Park.
The “old git” against the fabulous strong blue colours of the loch and sky.
The quiet single track road along the loch had a nice smooth surface, but it was fairly undulating and required a good bit of pedalling. But the views over the loch – with the strong blue colours of the loch and the sky – were truly spectacular. We stopped regularly to take in the scenery, including a fabulous natural view point from a rocky promontory jutting out over the loch – which was the perfect spot for a Team Matilda selfie!
Selfie time at a rocky promontory – giving a view along the full length of Loch Tummel.
It was a great day to be out tandeming – and along with the hills there were lots of smiles as we clocked off the miles! Next stop however was the thought-provoking entrance to Clunie Power Station and the eye-catching Clunie Memorial Arch.
Clunie dam holds back the waters of Loch Tummel. A tunnel from the loch feeds Clunie power station, which then discharges into Loch Faskally. The dramatic arch at Clunie honours the men who died in the late 1940s while digging the tunnel. The self-styled ‘Tunnel Tigers’ – named because of their cavalier approach to working conditions in the days before health and safety in their quest to earn huge bonuses – removed about 400,000 tons of rock for the Clunie pipeline. The arch measures 6.9 m across – the same dimensions as the tunnel. This remains one of the largest water tunnels in the UK.
The “old gal” is dwarfed by the Clunie Memorial Arch built to the same dimensions as the tunnel.
Moving on, as we approached Pitlochry the only visible option to get across to the road down the opposite side of Loch Tummel was for Team Matilda to cut up on to the busy A9 trunk road. Naturally this was rather alarming due to the fast moving traffic and heavy lorries using the main route between the central belt and the Highlands. The “old git” not surprisingly opted for the safe option of walking along the grass verge for 0.75 of a mile – as tandeming would have been extremely ill-advised – until the exit route off for the road back towards Tummel Bridge.
The “old git” wisely decided that pushing along the grass verge of the busy A9 was the safest option!
Team Matilda were happy to leave the dangers of the A9 behind and got back on my saddles riding along the B8019 at Faskally Caravan Park where suddenly out of nowhere – and as if by magic – signs for Sustrans ScotlandNational Cycle Network Rt 7 appeared! Just as quickly as they appeared they disappeared again – obviously heading further north! Our route crossed a bridge high over the River Gary – providing another must-do photo stop looking down into the deep valley below.
The bridge over River Gary crosses a scenic deep valley below!
After the trauma of having to engage with the A9, and the unseasonably warm sunshine, my dynamic crew were a little frazzled – so the “old gal” made a good shout for a time-out for lunch after finding a suitable spot off the busy B8019 road.
It is at moments like this that the meticulous forward planning which goes into a Team Matilda tandem ride – which can sometime seem a bit overdone – really pay off. The “old gal” and the “old git” enjoyed a luxury picnic with glasses of cold prosecco – kept cool by my trendy La Bouclee french-designed wine carrier – washing down croissants filled with smoked ham and chilli cream cheese. To follow, a fresh fruit salad and some much needed energy replenishment in the form of some chocolate! Heaven!
The fizz for the signature prosecco picnic was kept cool in my trendy la bouclee wine carrier!
The “old gal” enjoying a re-fuelling prosecco picnic in the sunshine!
Refuelled and refreshed by the food and fizz my dynamic crew pedalled on for a tough 3 miles till they came to their next scheduled stop at the Queens View Visitor Centre offering Highland Perthshire’s most iconic view over Loch Tummel and further down to Loch Rannoch.
Queens View Visitor Centre offers Highland Perthshire’s most iconic viewpoint.
It is the area’s most popular visitor attraction and naturally Team Matilda sparked more than a bit of attention from the throngs of bus parties who were visiting as I was pushed up to the viewpoint to get a good look from high over the loch!
The story goes that when Queen Victoria visited in 1866, she assumed that the sweeping view west along Loch Tummel was named after her – but she was wrong. Local history says that the view was really named after Isabella, the first wife of Robert the Bruce, who lived more than 500 years earlier. But that hasn’t stopped the visitor centre and cafe cashing in on the royal connection!
The bench says ‘reserved for royalty’ so naturally I presumed it was for this “old lady” to lean against!
Great image of me with Queen Victoria and her loyal servant John Brown at the post box!
After a loo stop and managing to get a coffee and a piece of caramel shortcake from the cafe – which looked like it had been hit by a plague of locusts in the shape of bus visitors! – the “old gal” was almost delirious to see that she was now getting the benefit of all the uphill climbs with the remainder of the route a highly enjoyable long descent down the side of the loch back to Tummel Bridge.
The “old git” on the original Tummel Bridge built by General Wade in 1733
The village takes its name from the old bridge which crosses the River Tummel which was built by General Wade in 1733. The old bridge still stands, although it is only open to pedestrians and cyclists, with a much more boring structure carrying the road alongside.
I was packed back in Matilda Transport and after a short drive we were back at our ultra-comfortable pod – enjoying a much needed refreshment to celebrate an epic day on a bicycle made for two!
Back at Tighnavon Glamping Pods – after an epic sun-kissed day of tandeming!
Over a very welcome, and relaxing gin on the decking of the glamping pod, the “old git” checked Strava which officially recorded the ride as showing that my dynamic crew tandemed a distance of 26.3 miles with a moving time of 2 hours 59 minutes. The average speed was 8.8 mph given the hot temperature and the overall elevation of 1756 feet. The maximum speed was 39.1 mph and Team Matilda managed to burn up 1958 calories and produce an average power output of 163 W. No gongs recorded, however, as this was our first time doing this ride.
Team Matilda enjoying sitting on the decking of the pod which was bathed in the early evening sun.
The sun – or the exertions of the pedalling, or perhaps both! -obviously got to the “old gal” as after a quick change out of her cycling gear she was soon found to have dozed off for a quick 40 winks on the decking! Needless to say, the “old git” – ever one to capture an opportunity – managed to stay awake and take a surprise photo of her in her relaxed state!
Only a one word caption required: spangled!
After a bit of necessary relaxation my dynamic crew headed out for what was supposed to be a dinner treat at Edina’s Kitchen – the restaurant in the new Dunalastair Hotel Suites, literally just round the corner in the square at Kinloch Rannoch. The “old git” and “old gal” were full of anticipation at a culinary delight to come as the new hotel claims to offer “award winning 5-star” food and service with “a range of dishes to suit every taste prepared by Michelin and Rosette trained chefs.”
The reality was sadly completely different and was a major disappointment. From the moment we arrived the restaurant was a chaotic scene with seemingly untrained staff not having a clue. To be told twice within two minutes of entering the bar area – by two different people – that “You shouldn’t be here – we are fully booked tonight” is quite simply unacceptable at any eaterie, far less one which sets out its stall as such a prestigious venue. Oh and that was despite the “old git” telling both members of staff that we had in fact booked a week ago, and confirmed the booking just a couple of hours earlier.
Dunalastair Hotel Suites failed by a long way to live up to its ‘award winning 5-star’ reputation.
We were allowed to stay after the confusion was sorted out – although amazingly no apology was forthcoming. But it might have been better had we been turned away – as the food was a major let down. The “old gal’s” main course, as an example, was some rather dry duck with two carrot sticks and one mange tout along with a spoonful of beetroot mash!
Two unexciting courses later – they would even have been disappointing if had been served in a pub – and a moderate bottle of wine saw Team Matilda’s wallet around £100 lighter and leaving with an overwhelming feeling of anti-climax. It really was such a shame as it should have been the ideal venue for a nice evening out from the pods.
Walking back the “old gal” and the “old git” enjoyed looking at the very clear sky which offered a wonderful view of the stars – without the usual light pollution. The Tighnavon Glamping Pods site looked perfectly cosy and romantic under the stars! With the temperature dropping, my dynamic crew both commented that they were happy that they were not in fact sleeping under the stars under canvas in the great outdoors – but in the comfort of a proper bed inside the heated pod i
The Tighnavon Glamping Pod site looked perfectly cosy and romantic under the stars!
Day 3 – Relaxing Sunday as tandeming abandoned due to heavy rain!
Opening the pod doors on Sunday, the weather had changed – so tandeming abandoned!
Sunday morning and the “old git” threw open the doors of our pod to discover that the glorious sunshine had suddenly disappeared overnight – with the weather changing to rain. A quick check of his “go-to” weather forecast – BBC Weather – confirmed that it was going to be heavy rain all day. So a quick discussion amongst my dynamic crew decided that tandeming was abandoned for the day.
The “old git” harrumphed as he was a bit frustrated as he had planned another loop of Loch Rannoch – but I must say here that he “old gal” was actually quietly rather pleased after the fairly arduous day in my saddles yesterday on the ride around Loch Tummel!
So the change of plan involved a much more relaxing morning – followed by a leisurely drive around our planned tandeming route to allow us to still pay a visit to the famous Rannoch Station Tearoom
The rain was nothing short of torrential as my dynamic crew drove the 11 miles from Tighnavon to the end of Loch Rannoch at Bridge of Gaur. The “old gal” was feeling rather smug – and cosy – sitting in Matilda Transport knowing that the alternative would have been a serious drooking from the rain!
They then headed on for final six miles of the scenic but secluded B846 road – which must be one of the world’s longest cul-de-sacs! But the reward at the end of the journey is the wonderfully remote Rannoch railway station where there is a favourite coffee and cake spot for the “old git” and the “old gal” – the amazing Rannoch Station Tearoom.
It really is a truly fabulous hidden gem – and must get the vote for being not only the most remote tearoom in Scotland – but the most welcoming and friendly. Run by the uber-hospitable Bill and Jenny Anderson it offers cyclists, walkers and railway passengers an amazing oasis of home made tasty coffees, cakes and light meals. You can even have a wine or a beer while sitting on the station platform watching the live theatre that is the natural wilderness of Rannoch Moor.
The uber hospitable Bill and Jenny who take service standards to new highs at Rannoch Station Tearoom.
The duo’s customer service ethic has no bounds – and even runs to delivering phone orders of bacon butties to train passengers travelling up and down the Glasgow to Fort William route. In my dynamic crew’s case it extended to a hugely warm welcome – impressively remembering names and our tandeming adventures! So it was a delicious serving of home made fruit scones with clotted cream and jam followed by gigantic slices of seriously yummy carrot cake washed down with a cafetiere of wonderfully strong freshly brewed coffee.
According to my dynamic crew the tearoom more than lived up to its five star Trip Advisor certificate of excellence award. And if the look of satisfaction on the “old gal’s” face as she sampled the goodies was anything to go by, I think if she could have awarded six stars, it would have been more than earned!
Bill and Jenny and their Rannoch Station Tearoom were featured recently on the Channel 4 show The World’s Most Beautiful Railway – which is well worth a look!
More than replete – stuffed is the word that comes to mind! – my dynamic crew drove back to Kinloch Rannoch on the quieter road on the south side of the loch. Fortunately the rain had more or less gone off for a bit as the “old gal” fancied doing a bit of photography to try and capture the magical qualities of the Black Wood of Rannoch – one of the largest areas of ancient pine forest left in Scotland.
The “old gal” tried a spot of photography to capture the magical qualities of the Black Wood of Rannoch
It certainly lives up to its Forestry and Land Scotland billing as “a living growing monument with some trees thought to be about 400 years old, and is home to a wonderful variety of plants and wildlife, including deer, pine martens and red squirrel.” It is little wonder that it is designated a Special Area of Conservation and was looking dramatically magnificent even in the wet conditions. It was truly a wonderful wilderness spot, and the “old gal” and the “old git” felt privileged to be there.
The Black Wood of Rannoch is home to “granny pines” some of which are up to 400 years old.
Inspired by the natural beauty of one of the “jewels” of Rannoch, Team Matilda drove back to the comfort of our luxury pod for some chill time – with even the “old git” now conceding that tandeming in the heavy rain they experienced would have been awful! Music to the “old gal’s” ears!
Later in the afternoon, Ian Philp and Sheona Glenville-Sutherland – the co-owners of Tighnavon – dropped by to hear my dynamic crew’s thoughts and comments on their new luxury en-suite glamping pods. Since it was wine o’clock, the “old gal” popped a cork on a bottle of wine and all had a most hospitable chat about the new tourism venture, and why it was badly needed in the area.
The “old git” filmed an interview with Sheona about the concept behind the new Tighnavon Glamping Pods at Kinloch Rannoch, which you can watch the video here:
After their media commitments, Team Matilda enjoyed another fabulous meal before more relaxation and an amazingly sound sleep. Next morning, sadly, it was time to leave the comfort of Tighnavon and head back to Matildas Rest – thoroughly refreshed after a great mini-break in what is one of the “old gal” and “old git’s” favourite places on earth.
So, my dynamic crew’s overall verdict: If you like the idea of getting back to nature – but without the canvas tent, then this is definitely for you. The new wooden en-suite glamping pods offer the ideal opportunity to enjoy luxury away-from-it-all accommodation, where you can do exactly as you please – while enjoying some exhilarating cycling and stunning scenery pedalling in the beautiful wilderness area of Loch Rannoch. As the “old git” said: “What’s not to like?!”
Team Matilda toasting Tighnavon Glamping Pods – what’s not to like?!
Thanks to Sheona and Ian at Tighnavon Glamping Pods at Kinloch Rannoch for their help, accommodation, and hospitality offered to Team Matilda on their mini-break. All opinions are that of Team Matilda!
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The sun made fleetingly rare appearances as we tandemed round the beautiful Loch Rannoch.
After a busy festive period, the “old git” and the “old gal” decided on a tandem ride to blow away the cobwebs – and decided on a New Year trip to the wilderness beauty spot of Loch Rannoch in Highland Perthshire. This is one of Team Matilda’s favourite places to tandem and the idea was to get some “brain food” to kick off the New Year and set the standards for some spectacular rides.
And for my dynamic duo, there was the added attraction of the ride allowing them to complete their prized “boxed set” of tandeming the loop around Loch Rannoch in four different seasons in a calendar year. You see we had already completed a tour in Spring,, Summer and Autumn. So just the winter circumnavigation to go!
But what the “old git” had perhaps overlooked in his natural unbridled enthusiasm to complete the challenge was that while Loch Rannoch is a stunning area and can provide an amazing backdrop – it can be cold in Winter! “That’s bleeping cold” the “old gal” has just clarified!
To be honest it was still officially freezing on the thermometer reading on Matilda Transport as we headed up the A9, turning off just after Pitlochry for Tummel Bridge. Given that is was January 2 we knew nothing would be open and had to drive past our normal coffee stop at the Queen’s View visitor centre – run by Forestry Commission Scotland as it was closed.
But my crew were able to fuel up on some coffee and home made shortbread – which the “old gal” had wisely decided to bring with us – when we parked in Kinloch Rannoch where we decided to start our loop from today, rather than our normal start point of Bridge of Gaur at the bottom of the loch.
With the thermometer just moving into positive territory – that’s 1C! – my dynamic crew pulled on their multiple layers of clothing, including thermals, fleeces, cycling jackets, winter weather gloves and even insulating skull caps for under their crash helmets! Then we headed off on our usual clockwise direction, which saw us cross the bridge and tandem firstly down the quieter south side of the loch. You can check out the details of our route on Strava below – and don’t forget to click on the map image to get the full data and statistics!
Lets just say that even with all that winter clothing – it was still extremely cold! In fact even the “old git conceded that it was pretty grim as we headed away from Kinloch Rannoch to be blasted by a fairly fierce wind blowing off the loch which never seems to be more than a couple of yards from the road.
With over 22 miles ahead, it did seem a tad adventurous, perhaps even a bit foolhardy – but a challenge is a challenge… and the “old git” reminded the “old gal” that they would soon reach the protection of the woodlands. It would need to be said that at this point relations between my dyanamic crew were somewhat frosty – a bit like the weather! And the “old git” didn’t really help things get any more convivial when he suggested to the “old gal” that she should be happy as she was getting the added treat of a free facial from the wind and the sleet as we tandemed along!
I felt mutiny in the air – or was it snow – but amazingly we all pedalled on and survived the bracing first mile or so before we got into our stride. The wilderness factor of the area is underlined as the narrow road – complete with passing places – winds its way into the magical Black Wood of Rannoch – one of the largest areas of ancient pine forest left in Scotland.
It certainly lives up to its Forestry Commission billing as “a living growing monument with some trees thought to be about 400 years old, and is home to a wonderful variety of plants and wildlife, including deer, pine martens and red squirrel.” It is little wonder that it is designated a Special Area of Conservation and was looking magnificent in all its moody Winter splendour. And today it had the added appeal of giving some protection from the elements.
After about 7 or 8 miles the forecast sun did make a fleeting appearance which lifted the spirits of my team somewhat. The “old gal” was so filled with enthusiasm that she even whipped her phone out to take “shadow” shots just to prove the sun did in fact decide to come out – albeit sporadically!
A moody “shadow” shot of Team Matilda – just to prove the sun did actually come out to say hello!
There was even time for a quick stop at a recognised viewpoint which gives a great vista all the way back up the loch – which combined with a much needed “wild” loo stop and the “old gal” singing the praises of her Shewee!
The “old git|” and the “old gal” forcing a smile to show they were having fun despite the cold!
On we pedalled battling against the wind and that double hill towards the end of the south side stretch. Given the cold temperature it was perhaps no surprise my dynamic crew decided not to stop at the halfway point at the bottom of the loch for their planned alfresco cremant picnic at Bridge of Gaur – and instead we decided to head back up the north side back to Kinloch Rannoch.
The difference in tandeming conditions as we headed in the opposite direction was immediately noticeable – it was much calmer as any wind was now behind us … and the sun came out again, allowing more “shadow” fun with the camera!
Another “shadow” shot on the north side of the loch while we took in the scenic beauty of the area.
The “old gal” basking in the sunshine – well freezing in the fleeting sunshine to be exact!
We tandemed on – with my crew close to “hitting the wall” as they found themselves running on empty – after the decision to delay the picnic till our return to Matilda Transport. However a quick gorge on a couple of small “emergency” bars of chocolate was enough to refuel my crew to carry on!
The original plan was to have a quick halt at a regular stop off point on the north side – at a wild camping area about two-thirds of the way up the loch – which usually offers a perfect opportunity for pictures with the majesty of the perfectly conical shape of Schiehallion – one of Scotland’s most recognisable mountains – in the background.
The only snag was that with the mist and snow which was falling on the mountains – as you will see from the photo below – Schiehallion had completely disappeared. Or as the “old gal” quipped: “Maybe it decided to go somewhere warm like the Canary Islands for a sunshine holiday … like we should have done!” And you know what … and yes I know you will find this difficult to believe … I don’t think she was joking! But I am sure they would take me along for some warm weather training!
Where’s Schiehallion gone? No sign of the conical mountain top this time in the Winter mist!
It was the first time in the four different seasons of visits to Loch Rannoch that the mountain hadn’t dominated the skyline. So this “old lady” blogging tandem decided to look back at my previous Musings to remind my faithful readers what Schiehallion looked like in each of the other three seasons.
It’s behind you! Despite the light Spring snow, the “old gal” had no problem seeing Schiehallion.
Schiehallion showing its majesty in Summer – with Team Bluebird on Le Tour de Perthshire.
Bright Autumn sunshine to see Schiehallion – with solo cyclist friends Gillian and Craig.
Apart from the cold weather conditions, another big difference for our Winter loop was the height of the water in the loch. Looking back at the photos you will see a pebble beach – but this was completely under water for our trip this time! And amazingly the “old gal” didn’t jump at the chance when the “old git” joked: “Ok first in the water gets an extra big gin!” She did however mutter something under her breath – but this is a family blog and it can’t be repeated here!
The majesty of me – at the empty wild camping site! Imagine Schiehallion in the backdrop!
The “old git” – who clearly isn’t wired up properly – asked the “old gal” why the wild camping site was totally empty only to be told in no uncertain terms this was because it was freezing! However it did allow me the opportunity of a picture to show off my majestic lines since Schiehallion was hiding!
Then it was time for the “old git’s” well thought out plan to record an “on location” New Year message – offering a cremant toast to offer best wishes for 2017 to readers of my blog and fellow tandemers everywhere. He had come up with a script and great ideas to use his new fancy phone with his new tripod device and Bluetooth gizmo to film an epic which would then be edited together into an Oscar winning film! But the fact that my dynamic crew were feeling less than dynamic and distinctly chilled meant that it was a one-take (less than) wonder! (Remember if you are reading this on email, you need to click on the blog first – via the link at the bottom of the email – to view the video.)
It certainly wasn’t a Steven Spielberg production – and it was so cold that the “old git” didn’t even have time to open the bottle of fizz! Job done my crew – fairly well chilled to the marrow by now – got back on the saddles and covered the last couple of miles to Kinloch Rannoch in double quick time.
To defrost the “old gal” and the “old git” jumped in to the comfort of Matilda Transport – immediately switching on the heating system and enjoying a reviving cup of warm coffee. After a few minutes they were able to enjoy their picnic lunch – indoors not outdoors obviously! – while having a look at Strava which officially recorded the ride as covering a distance of 22.7 miles with a total moving time of 2 hours 27 minutes, at an average speed of 9.3 mph. And my dynamic crew showed they still had good fitness levels by recording no less than 7 Strava gongs – which given the freezing temperature was really quite an impressive performance from my crew!
Total elapsed time was just 2 hours 50 minutes due to not hanging about during the photo and video shoot! Top speed was a not too shabby 27.5 mph and the elevation covered was 389 feet. Together we managed to burn up 1,211 calories to help wipe out some of the festive excesses, and produced an estimated average power output of 123 W.
Just one complaint to the local tourism people at Rannoch and Tummel – there were lots of people about as it was the day after New Year’s Day – but nowhere was open. Not exactly offering tourists a warm welcome ….. surely it wouldn’t have been too difficult for somewhere to open for a few hours?
As we headed home to Matildas Rest – the exercise endorphins had fortunately started to kick in – with all three of us agreeing that – even allowing for the somewhat cold temperatures – that it had still been a worthwhile ride in a spectacular area. There was even time for some self congratulation of achieving the four loops in four different seasons. Even if the “old gal” was saying that the next time she wanted to do it in t-shirt weather!
So as a reminder of much warmer wilderness tandeming – here’s a picture from our warm summer loop of the toast that we had planned …. Cheers! And all the best for 2017!
Warm memories – prosecco with an Irn-Bru chaser!
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Basking in the Autumn colours at Loch Rannoch with my matching red leather la bouclee wine carrier!
On returning to Scotland from the adventure of Le Tour de Loire Valley du Tandem, followed by a week in Normandy in northern France, the “old git” and the “old gal” – along with me – were really missing our long days in the fresh air as we tandemed along.
So after two weeks my dynamic crew could stand it no more and decided on an uplifting trip to the wilderness beauty spot of Loch Rannoch in Highland Perthshire.
The “old gal” invited good friends, and solo cyclists, Gillian and Craig along as they had heard all about our trips to Rannoch and Tummel and wanted to experience it for themselves.
The spectacular images started with the view from the bridge over the River Tummel.
After driving up the busy A9 my crew enjoyed the spectacular image that is the view from the bridge over the River Tummel – with the trees on its banks just starting to change colour.
We stopped at the Queen’s View visitor centre – run by Forestry Commission Scotland – and met up with Gillian and Craig for coffee and a chat, and a walk to the viewpoint.
On a clear day … overlooking Rannoch and Tummel from Queen’s View
With it being such a clear day the views were eye-catching to say the least. We then drove down to the bottom of Loch Rannoch and parked up just past Bridge of Gaur,
Ready for the off! Gillian and Craig with their solo bikes and their shiny new car.
We quickly unpacked the cars – admiring Gillian and Craig’s shiny new white car as we did so – to ensure we got the best of the weather. Then, in perfect Autumn sunshine we off on our usual clockwise route. You can check out the details of our scenic route on the loop round Loch Rannoch on Strava below – and don’t forget to click on the map image to get the full date and statistics!
My new red leather bouclee accessory against the perfect backdrop of Loch Rannoch
Despite not having tandemed for nearly two weeks, I am pleased to report that Team Matilda had lost none of the fitness we had in France. We were soon rolling along at a good pace, and whisper it, but Gillian and Craig seemed to be struggling to keep up!
Maybe they were just drinking in the amazing views across the loch to the mountains, or just making my dynamic duo feel good – but they were definitely lagging behind!
The “old gal” decided a quick stop was required at the wild camping area about two-thirds of the way up the loch – which offers a perfect opportunity for pictures with the majesty of the perfectly conical shape of Schiehallion – one of Scotland’s most recognisable mountains – in the background.
This area provides easy access to rocky beach and the loch was looking beautiful reflecting the bright sunshine off its surface.
The brightness of the sun made it difficult to get that group shot with Schiehallion in the background.
Tandeming on we soon arrived in the town of Kinloch Rannoch at our regular picnic spot – overlooking a waterfall and the surrounding trees just starting to change colour. Perfection!
This was time for Team Matilda to introduce Gillian and Craig into the delightful benefits of their (in)famous prosecco picnics – which in fact today was a Cremant picnic as the bottle was one of many the “old gal” brought back from France.
And I am delighted to report that my new very fancy red leather la bouclee wine bottle carrier accessory did its job perfectly – with the air flow created by our tandeming keeping the bottle cool!
The “old git”expertly popping the cork – and not a drop was spilled!
Cheers! The “old gal”, the “old git”, Gillian and Craig toast the Cremant picnic!
There can’t be many more perfect spots for a picnic – complete with waterfall!
After a most enjoyable picnic we set off down the quieter south side of the loch – which if anything is even more scenic than the north shore. The B-class single track road never seems to be more than a couple of yards from the loch itself.
The wilderness factor is underlined as it winds its way through the magical Black Wood of Rannoch – one of the largest areas of ancient pine forest left in Scotland.
Photobombing! Gillian making sure she gets in the picture on the banks of Loch Rannoch.
It certainly lives up to its Forestry Commission billing as “a living growing monument with some trees thought to be about 400 years old, and is home to a wonderful variety of plants and wildlife, including deer, pine martens and red squirrel.” It is little wonder that it is designated a Special Area of Conservation and was looking magnificent in all its Autumn splendour.
And it wouldn’t have been fair to leave Craig out of the picture either!
We stopped again to bask in the warm sunshine by the side of the loch to take in more of the views – and for some more fun pictures.
Gillian and Craig balancing on a rock overlooking the beauty of the loch.
Never trust your stoker – the “old git” in blissful ignorance of the “old gal’s” funny face!
The “old git” and the “old gal” were really in the zone today and we were pedalling along at an average of over 12 mph – a good bit above our usual which hovers around the 10 mph mark.
I was uber impressed with my dynamic duo, and none more so towards the end of the loop where there is a fairly steep double hill. But we sailed up it as if it wasn’t there! So much so that the “old gal” was heard to say: “Is that it?!”
After completing the circuit, and clocking up 25 miles, it was back to the cars and I was packed away before a short 6 mile drive to the end of the road and the wonderfully remote Rannoch railway station. The “old git” had got the timing right today and was delighted to report that the amazing Rannoch Station tearoom was still open – and my crew and Gillian and Craig piled in for some welcome coffee and cake.
End of the line! One of the remotest and most scenic stations in Scotland overlooks Rannoch Moor.
The station is just one stop down the line from Corrour station – where parts of the new Trainspotting 2 movie were recently filmed.
The final stop for the day was to walk across the road from the station to be met by Scott and Steph, mine hosts at the oasis which is Moor of Rannoch Hotel.
A toast to a successful circuit of Loch Rannoch from the gin bar at Moor of Rannoch hotel!
It is hard to describe this hotel to fully justify what it offers but essentially it is probably best summed up in the four headline words they use on their website – Retreat, Relax, Unwind, Escape.
The hotel’s major selling point – apart from the gin bar (obviously!) is that there is no tv signal and no wifi. You are quite literally cut off from the modern world.
Spot the “stag party” of friendly deer merging in with the bracken on the moor.
But that is a huge benefit, and the scenery provides the stimulating brain food as the hotel looks out over the wilderness of Rannoch Moor to the Glencoe mountains. And right on cue as we relaxed before dinner the friendly “stag party” arrived – a herd of deer who come off the hill for food from a local who leaves vegetables out every evening for them.
The “old git” and the “old gal” had worked up an appetite with their route round the loch in a record time of under 2 hours, so along with Gillian and Craig thoroughly enjoyed a superb meal – with the kitchen presenting Highland Perthshire’s larder at its very best!
Another gin as a night cap – along with the cheeseboard which is offered free after dinner – neatly rounded off the day! But not before hotel owner Scott asked if any guests wanted to go outside and see the stags as it was the middle of the rutting season.
My crew went out and Scott used a high powered torch to identify a couple of the magnificent ‘Monarchs of the Glen’ who he caught in his spotlight.
Caught like a stag in the headlights! A magnificent deer just outside the hotel.
Another stag on the edge of the moor issuing its rutting season roar!
What an end to a truly memorable day in a fabulous wilderness area with good friends! What could be better?!
Next morning we awoke to an amazing vista from the window of the luxurious bedroom – with a view right across Rannoch Moor.
Not a bad way to start the week – Monday morning coffee and the view across Rannoch Moor.
As the “old gal” said – it’s not a bad view to start the week! After a hearty breakfast we checked out of the hotel feeling fully refreshed.
And on the drive back to Matildas Rest we took in more amazing Autumn views – while identifying a potential new route for Team Matilda to try out … along the side of Loch Tummel.
Loch Tummel in reflective mood. The calm weather showed off the area at its best.
As we headed back out of the Rannoch and Tummel area, my dynamic crew said it won’t be long before all three of us are back tandeming in one of our favourite wilderness areas.
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A brilliantly coloured rainbow encapsulates the beauty of Loch Rannoch.
Check out our route round Loch Rannoch on Strava here – don’t forget to click on the map to get the full data and statistics!
Now you know how the “old git” likes a challenge! Well the eagle-eyed among you may have spotted a comment from Martin, a good friend of my dynamic duo, at the end of my last Musing. He got to hear of our plans for our Easter weekend trip to the wilderness spot of Loch Rannoch in Highland Perthshire and threw down the gauntlet: “Good luck this Sunday – I ran the Loch Rannoch Marathon 30 years ago and it took me 3 hours 50mins to cover the 26 miles. I reckon you can beat that time on Matilda … fancy a challenge?!”
Well I must admit it sounded appealing and the challenge was immediately accepted – after it was confirmed that Martin meant cycling time, as there was the vitally important lunch stop for the prosecco picnic to factor in! So once it was agreed that it was moving time – with the Strava app report being the official arbiter – we were all up for it! Even the “old gal” thought it was achievable!
So the challenge was to be part of what was now the annual Easter training camp trip to Loch Rannoch – to step up the training for this summer’s Tour de Loire Valley in September.
The area is described as one of the last true wildernesses in Europe – with truly majestic scenery. And the “old git” made sure the “old gal” was happy by throwing in the carrot of a repeat overnight stay in the amazingly remote small luxury Moor of Rannoch Hotel to recharge their batteries (and legs) after the cycling. When the “old git” mentioned to the “old gal” that there were 12 Scottish gins in the speciality gin bar, she was sold! Even if it meant cycling 26 miles before gin o’clock!
The “old gal” didn’t even complain as we all found ourselves bundled into Matilda Transport at the unearthly hour of 7.30 am on Easter Sunday – even earlier if you factor in the clocks going forward! – to head off up the A9. The “old git” kept going on about the forecast of bright sunshine, with the odd shower, but I have to say that me and the “old gal” were a bit sceptical after some torrential rain the day before.
But amazingly there was sunshine as we headed away from Matildas Rest and spirits were raised even further with a tasty cooked breakfast stop at the brilliant Ballinluig Motor Grill.
Fuelling up for the tandeming trip ahead!
Back on the road we were soon turning off the A9 just after Pitlochry and heading along the narrow winding roads past Loch Tummel to the village of Kinloch Rannoch at the head of the loch, which would be our lunch stop.
We drove down the 12 miles to the bottom of the loch, and a smile came to the lips of the “old gal” as she remembered how flat – or very gently undulating – the route was!
So before 11 we had parked up just after Bridge of Gaur and we were all set for our own Easter Sunday Tour de Loch Rannoch du Tandem! Strava connected with GPS even though there was no internet access in the area – so our challenge was going to be officially recorded.
The sun was shining brightly on the waters as we set off and the miles clocked up quickly as we cycled along the north side of the loch. The route is a real magnet for cyclists – and the “old git” happily parped my horn at various people clad in tight lycra who appeared much fitter than my dynamic duo. But it would have to be said that they were not having nearly as much fun as we were – because remember being on tandem really is double the fun!
As it was only March, there were a few clouds about but that only added to the mystery as the majesty of the perfectly conical shape of Schiehallion – one of Scotland’s most recognisable mountains – kept appearing and disappearing as we cycled along.
A quick stop at a wild camping area provided some great photo opportunities including me posing beside a proper camp fire – with Schiehallion providing a marvelous scenic backdrop!
Having a rest at a wild camping site on the loch side looking out to Schiehallion.
Despite the romantic image – all three of us were in one voice that Team Matilda don’t do camping! We like our home comforts too much! And as the “old gal” said: “Where would I plug in my hair dryer?!”
As the sun broke through the clouds again the “old git” decided on a shot showing off my new Captain and Stoker water bottles basking in the wild and remote loch side setting. He really is getting quite artistic in his old age!
My new Captain and Stoker water bottles in an arty lochside shot!
Then he decided he would have some fun with the “old gal” and got her to pose looking wistfully into the distance so he could shout “Where’s Schiehallion – Its behind you!” in pantomime voice!
The “old gal” looking wistfully for Schiehallion. “It’s behind you!”
It was time to get back in the saddle, but only after another photo of me and the “old gal” – or the two old ladies as the “old git” describes us! – with a view down the loch with its rugged and remote mountain backdrop.
The two “old ladies” together on the natural habitat of Loch Rannoch.
On we pedalled and in what seemed like no time we were tandeming into the village of Loch Rannoch feeling really pleased at ourselves at having reached the half way point. Time for lunch and the dynamic duo’s famous prosecco picnic!
Lunch – time for one of my dynamic duo’s famous prosecco picnics!
The “old git” found a small bench right in front of a waterfall which was in full spate after the recent heavy rain. The sound of the water rushing down provided a fabulous wilderness backdrop as my dynamic duo ate their healthy goodies – prepared to Hay eating plan guidelines!
You know I am so impressed with my crew who have now clocked up an amazing weight loss of 32 pounds between them in just six weeks! My frame is certainly feeling the benefits! However, that didn’t stop them indulging in a small bottle of prosecco each to toast the Easter training trip and to wash down the tasty salad wraps and fruit salad.
And the lunch had been packed away in a nifty new “Bicycle Riders Luncheon Box” which good friends Ann and Jack gave us at Christmas.
A very nifty new lunch box to keep the sandwiches fresh.
After a great alfresco lunch, the dynamic duo decided a coffee would be a good idea and dropped into the Riverbank Cafe – a real favourite of all the cyclists who circle the loch. The staff are so helpful – immediately offering a jug of water to top up my water bottles. After feeling virtuous over their healthy lunch – and taking into account the calories being burned off – it seemed only right to accompany their wonderful coffee with a slice of their lovely thick caramel shortcake.
So refuelled we crossed the old bridge and headed off on the route back down the south side of the loch – which if anything is even quieter and even more scenic.
The B-class single track road never seems to be more than a couple of yards from the loch itself, and the wilderness factor is underlined as it winds its way through the magical Black Wood of Rannoch – one of the largest areas of ancient pine forest left in Scotland. It certainly lives up to its Forestry Commission billing as “a living growing monument with some trees thought to be about 400 years old, and is home to a wonderful variety of plants and wildlife, including deer, pine martens and red squirrel.”
It is so special that it feels like an honour to be able to cycle through it – truly getting as close as possible to nature. Little wonder then that it is designated a Special Area of Conservation.
At the edge of the wooded area it was time for another stop – and given it was Easter Sunday it was time for my dynamic duo to roll their Easter eggs! They had hand decorated some hard boiled eggs the day before and carefully wrapped them in bubble wrap to survive the trip!
Hand decorated eggs for rolling – or launching as it turned out!
They walked a few yards to a tranquil small stony area at the edge of the loch and with no steep banking the “old git” decided that they would have to make do with launching the eggs into the water instead of rolling them. The “old git” decided he would shoot a video to record the “old gal” launching her Easter egg into the now calm waters of Loch Rannoch, with hilarious results – especially the fact that he spectacularly missed capturing the egg entering the water!
You can see the fun for yourself – and admire the amazing scenery – by clicking on the video below. (Remember if you are reading this on email, you need to click onto the actual blog via the link at the bottom of the email to view the video.)
As we walked back to the bike the “old git” noticed that I was somewhat incongruously parked up against a phone box – which must be one of the remotest in Scotland. It is even more amazing given there is no internet or mobile phone signal around. So the “old git” let his imagination go into overdrive and suggested I was calling my friend Bluebird – the recumbent tandem based in Hampshire and crewed by John and Jane – to tell her what a beautiful area this was and how much she would like it!
Trying to call my friend Bluebird from one of the remotest call boxes in Scotland!
You see Bluebird is famous too as she has her own Facebook page! And I can’t wait till August as she is coming to Perthshire to tour round some of the best routes in our wonderful area. Us two tandems are going to have such fun out on the roads together!
Back on the route, we even managed the bit of a climb which gives great views over the loch across. Just at that point there was the only rain shower of the day. But we couldn’t complain, and especially not as the sun and the shower revealed the most beautiful brightly coloured rainbow. The “old gal” leapt into action and quickly positioned me beneath its arc to get a great photo. So good in fact here it is again, in case you missed it at the start of my Musing!
Here I am perfectly positioned beneath the arc of a spectacularly vivid rainbow.
The rain stopped as suddenly as it started and with the sun shining again a descent on a windy stretch took us quickly back down to end the circle of the loch at Bridge of Gaur and a short cycle back to where Matilda Transport was parked.
The sun was bright enough for the “old gal” to take a Team Matilda shadow photo.
But you will remember Martin’s challenge! The milometer was reading just 24 miles in just under 3 hours travelling time – and the challenge was to complete 26 miles in 3 hours 50 mins. No way the “old git” and the “old gal” were going to give up on breaking Martin’s record at this stage! So, despite being fairly tired, my dynamic duo pedalled past Matilda Transport and headed out into the open countryside before performing a u-turn to complete an additional three miles. (That explains the extra bit at Bridge of Gaur after our circle of the loch on the Strava map!)
The “old gal” managed to video the “old git” recording a cheeky message for Martin as they crossed the 26 mile marker to hammer home the challenge had been won! Click on the video below. (Remember again that if you are reading this on email, you need to click onto the actual blog via the link at the bottom of the email to view the video.)
Although we couldn’t get official confirmation at that point from the Strava app – we knew we had smashed Martin’s time. When we did get internet access and downloaded our route it unequivocally showed that we covered 26.9 miles in a moving time of 3 hours 07 mins and 11 seconds! More than 40 minutes faster! Officially verified! I have to say all three of us had a good laugh about the challenge throughout the day – and I know Martin won’t mind his 30 year old (plus!) record getting broken one little bit! We await the next challenge with interest!
So buoyed by that success I was packed up into Matilda Transport and we drove the final five hilly miles towards Rannoch Station where our training camp hotel is situated. Before checking in we had been recommended to try the famous Rannoch Station tearoom. It is amazing and a little gem.
The appetising array of home made cakes at Rannoch Moor Tearoom.
A really friendly couple have transformed the old station waiting room into a most welcoming tea room – providing hot drinks and home made treats! It is a real favourite with walkers when they come off the moor, and if my dynamic duo’s coffee and carrot cake was anything to go by it fully deserves its “must visit” reputation.
We then literally walked across the road from the tearoom to be met by Scott and Steph, mine hosts at the oasis which is Moor of Rannoch Hotel. It is hard to describe this hotel to fully justify what it offers but essentially it is probably best summed up in the four headline words they use on their website – Retreat, Relax, Unwind, Escape.
The hotel’s major selling point – apart from the gin bar (obviously!) is that there is no tv signal and no wifi. You are quite literally cut off from the modern world. But that is a huge benefit, and the scenery provides the stimulating brain food as it looks out over the wilderness of Rannoch Moor to the Glencoe mountains.
Moor of Rannoch Hotel sits on Rannoch Moor with the Glencoe mountains as a backdrop.
Only minutes after we checked in to one of only five bedrooms, there was another magical moment when a herd of about 20 deer – came down off the hill to feed. As the “old git” rather obviously said: “Maybe there’s a stag party on!” As the “old gal” groaned and forced a laugh to humour him she grabbed her phone and managed to capture the image while hanging out the bedroom window.
The stag party coming down off the moor for feeding! Who needs the internet!
After a much needed shower, and some rest and recuperation my dynamic duo had a pre-dinner selection from the gin bar featuring many small batch artisan Scottish gins. The “old git” had a Gordon Castle while the “old gal” had a Shetland Reel!
A wonderful dinner full of flavours to tempt the taste buds followed – sample menu here – all home cooked on the premises from mainly local produce by Steph. That was helped along with a lovely fruity dry Sauvignon, and all accompanied by the live theatre that is the moving vista of the wild countryside viewed through the massive picture windows.
As we sampled the cheeseboard in the lounge – along with a liqueur of Scotland’s first rum called Dark Matter – the “old git” reflected on the fact that it has to be one of the remotest and best locations for a hotel anywhere in Scotland.
And the “old gal” pointed out that the owners, Scott and Steph, have got it just right, offering wonderful friendly but not obsequious hospitality making it feel like a home from home in the middle of the wilderness.
After dinner the atmosphere in the lounge becomes like a small house party, with guests exchanging stories and playing games like Scrabble and Connect 4!
It offers a real all encompassing five-star stay – which cannot be faulted – and all without having to pay five-star prices. It is highly recommended, but make sure and book ahead as it is becoming increasingly popular. You won’t be disappointed!
After an amazing day tiredness hit and sleep beckoned – with my crew no doubt dreaming of breaking Martin’s challenge over and over again!
Remember, if you’ve got this far and haven’t checked out my route to around Loch Rannoch on Strava you can do so here.
And finally, don’t forget to keep all your fingers and toes crossed for my blog – which is a finalist in the Most Innovative category of the UK Blog Awards 2016. Not only is Matildas Musings the only blog ‘written’ by a classic Jack Taylor tandem, but it is the only Scottish finalist. The results will be announced at a glitzy awards presentation evening at the Park Plaza Hotel in London on Friday April 29. Here’s hoping …
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