Four seasons in a weekend on Costa del Millport

A+J Millport - Craigard Guest House

Ready to roll! Enjoying the sunshine outside Craigard Guest House.

The Sunday of the May bank holiday weekend and the “old git” has booked us all for an overnight stay on “the sunshine island” of Millport – the traditional ‘boot camp’ training ground for Team Matilda when they need to get fit. For those unfamiliar with ‘Costa del Millport’, one of the big attractions is that the island is just 10 minutes by ferry from the mainland at Largs – and it offers a virtually flat 10.25 mile trip around the island on almost traffic free roads. It is a cyclists paradise really.

Well it is when the sun shines! Which it wasn’t when we all wakened up on early on Sunday morning! A look out the window confirmed it was lashing with rain and blowing a right ‘hoolie’ of a gale.

The “old gal” wasn’t impressed and had one of those “I told you so” looks on her face. It didn’t help matters that the “old git” – ever the optimist – was walking round saying it was going to be dry later and bright sunshine all day on Monday.

What he overlooked however was the small matter of the weather forecast until early afternoon which was showing sleet and snow on high ground, with some hail, turning to heavy rain, with prolonged downpours leading to flood warnings. Oh! and the not insignificant matter of 44 mph winds blowing. Just ideal conditions for a ferry crossing and some tandem cycling! NOT!

But the “old gal” knew that mutiny was pointless as the bed and breakfast was already booked, combined with the fact that we were taking good friends Ann and Jack along with us to show them the ‘Millport Experience’! The “old git” graciously suggested a delayed departure from Matilda’s Rest – to 10am instead of 9.15am (big concession eh?!)

And so we found ourselves driving down the A9 towards Glasgow, fighting our way through surface water, while those annoying signs at the side of the road kept flashing: “Warning – surface water and high winds”.

We arrived in the esplanade car park to find we were one of just three cars parked there – which is perhaps not that surprising given it seemed to be the middle of a monsoon! You could hardly see across the water to Millport, which was shrouded by rain. But the good news was – despite the gale force winds – that the ferries were still running. Good old Caledonian Macbrayne!

But as the “old git” isn’t the best sailor in bad weather, we decided to delay the crossing and retire for a coffee and team briefing in Nardinis in Largs. Which I thought was a good plan, as I was still safely tucked up in Matilda Transporter – warm and dry.

The original plan had been to leave the vehicles in Largs and catch a ferry then cycle the four miles from the ferry slipway to the town of Millport. But sense prevailed over coffee, and they decided that the only option was to take the cars across.

An hour later they ventured out and decided to go for it! And so we boarded the ferry for the short crossing, with the “old gal” talking away like a budgie to the “old git” to keep his mind off the rough sea. It really wasn’t that bad a crossing – but driving off the ferry it was still very windy with lots of rain clouds.

We drove round the ‘long way’ round the quiet side of the island to show Ann and Jack the views of Rothesay and Arran … except Arran had disappeared behind some mist! Into the town itself and lunch was the next plan as the weather was due to ease  – with some sunshine expected – by late afternoon.

The “old gal” suggested we all pop into the Dancing Midge Cafe for a bite to eat, having eaten here before. And it certainly didn’t disappoint, with the intrepid foursome enjoying a very tasty soup and sandwich lunch.

Next up, we checked-in to the Craigard Guest House – a relatively newly established business on the island – run by the very friendly and hospitable Janette and Crawford. The bed and breakfast has only been open for a year, but already it is gaining a  reputation for a home-from-home stay. And we could see immediately see why when we were shown to our comfortable and immaculately clean en-suite rooms.

Believe it or not, at this point the wind almost disappeared and the sun broke out thru the clouds. So it was a race to get the cycling gear on and set off on the first circuit of the island.

A+J Millport - selfie

The “old git”, the “old gal”, Jack and Ann – pose for a cycling selfie!

It was actually good to be out in the fresh air – and we were soon travelling at our regulation average speed of 10mph, which meant an hour for the circuit … even allowing time for dodging the big puddles. Never has the saying ‘four seasons in a day’ been more apt – as the “old git” and the “old gal” enjoyed being back on the saddle and clocking up the miles.

It was almost balmy round the more protected side of the island, and Arran had re-appeared again! Although the snow-capped peak of Goat Fell was perhaps testament to the fairly cool temperature!

In what seemed to be no time at all we were cycling back into Millport town, feeling euphoric for having managed to get out for a run. Even the “old gal” was heard to comment that it was an enjoyable experience! I was safely parked up in the garden of the bed and breakfast, with carrier bags over my saddles in case it rained!

Meanwhile it was a shower and change for my intrepid owners before joining Ann and Jack for a meal at The Harbour restaurant. Regular readers of my blog will know that the “old git” and the “old gal” previously found The Harbour to be one of their favourite restaurants – especially the famous seafood platter. It is under new ownership this summer, so it was with more than a little trepidation that they had booked – but those thoughts were soon blown away as soon as they entered.

A warm welcome and a great menu were on offer, as well as a small but good wine list as it is now licensed. They may no longer do the seafood platter, but what was on offer was really tasty and originally presented. The “old gal”, for example, had mussels in a cider sauce, before a build-your-own burger with a blue cheese topping offered in ciabatta bread, finishing off with a chocolate orange torte, and washed down with  Shiraz wine. And all very good value. The “old gal” has already told me we will be back!

Back to the bed and breakfast, and some much needed sleep, ahead of a day’s cycling on the holiday Monday – with the promise of a full day of sunshine!

A hearty cooked breakfast – with all the trimmings including a tattie scone – at the Craigard set the team up for the day. And after exchanging fond farewells to Janette and Crawford – who promised to check-out my blog – we were ready for the road by 10am.

A+J Millport - bikes

Jack, Ann and the “old gal” – with me and those pesky electric bikes!

Now at this stage I have to tell you that Ann and Jack are really cheats when it comes to cycling – as they have a pair of those pesky battery-powered electric bikes. Which of course we all know is not real cycling! Pedal power is the only way! And the “old gits” repeated claims that Millport was an environmentally friendly non-electric bike island seemed to fall on deaf ears!

However during the first circuit of the day, the batteries were hardly required as the island was bathed in what could be described as tropical sunshine. The temperature was not quite so tropical – but the sun was out and the “old git” needed his sunscreen on. The sea was restored to serene calmness and the water crystal clear. Quite a transformation from 24 hours previously! But then it is an island, and you can expect all weathers in the one day!

And on the circular route, Ann and Jack became acquainted with the local landmarks of Lion rock and Indian rock. The circuit was easily completed before a coffee stop at the wonderfully named Crocodeli deli and cafe in the town, named after the famous Crocodile Rock which sits on the sea front. It is popular with cyclists as the coffee really is full of flavour and the welcome is really friendly.

Back on the road – in the opposite direction this time – we headed to one of the quiet beaches just after Fintry Bay. The “old gal” was ecstatic with the sun on her back and a breeze helping push us along. We stopped for a great picnic which the “old gal” had put together, albeit the plan was to eat it the day before! But what a fantastic place for lunch, with wonderful views from the beach across to Rothesay and Arran. And so a toast to the scenic beauty of  Millport was made, before the mini bottles of prosecco were consumed!

A+J Millport beach

 Our private “table” for lunch! Picnic on the beach!

Fed and proseccoed we set off again, enjoying the views as we fair cantered along. And yes, even Ann and Jack were pedalling without electric power at this stage!

The views were so clear and mesmerising that the “old gal” gamely decided to try her hand at shooting another video – this time from a static position. Check out the scenery by clicking on the video:

However as we rounded the headland the wind had picked up again and the “old git” and the “old gal” were now cycling directly into a strong headwind. As for their friends Ann and Jack, they were really enjoying the benefits of their battery power! I am sure I heard lots of muttering under the “old gits” breath at this point, but I can’t be sure, as I couldn’t hear for the strength of the wind!

It was a slower than expected grind back down past the ferry into Millport, where plans for a planned third circuit of the island were quickly forgotten about. And all of a sudden I was back in Matilda Transporter for the journey home!

A final walk along the promenade included a ‘must-do’ tourists-on-holiday-in-Millport photo shoot at Crocodile Rock.

A+J Millport - Di croc rock

The “old gal” scared of the crocodile!

A final coffee at the revamped Garrison House – and a look at some photos of Old Millport – rounded off the day, before we all headed back to the ferry and home to Auchterarder.

Credit must go to Ann and Jack for making the weekend fun and memorable, and for persevering when the weather looked so bad at the start. But I am sure they enjoyed their ‘Millport Experience’ in the end!

And as for Team Matilda, we do it all again next weekend, as the “old gal” tells me we are off up north for what the “old git” has already headlined as ‘Matilda’s Highland Fling!’


2 thoughts on “Four seasons in a weekend on Costa del Millport

  1. What a fabulous read! You have definitely got the ‘vibe’ of the Isle of Cumbrae. You should get this up on TripAdvisor too (or a link) ; people would love to read this!. Thanks for sharing. And Happy Biking!


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